In the shadow of a trendy West L.A. shopping mall rests the Apple Pan, a late-night fixture for several decades. The burgers are real and real tasty, the soft drinks are served in cone-shaped, disposable paper cups, and the service is fast and friendly. The best thing about the Apple Pan, however, are the pies. This is where Esther and I go for our Thanksgiving apple, pumpkin and especially pecan pies. If you go, expect to sit at the counter...because that's all they have, just a semi-circle from which you can watch your burger grilled with Tillamook cheese.